Summer pore concerns cannot be reduced to a simple matter of enlarged pores. Effective management begins only when two distinct skin phenomena — dilated pores and clogged pores — are understood separately.
Dilated pores
: a signal that the skin’s structure is breaking down.
Clogged pores
: a biochemical collision between dead skin cells and sebum.
As summer approaches, pores rank among the most frequently discussed concerns in esthetic practice. Rising temperatures and humidity accelerate sebum production and disrupt the skin’s moisture balance, making pores appear more prominent. The phrase “enlarged pores” alone does not capture the full picture. From a dermatological science perspective, pore concerns present in two distinct forms with different underlying causes: dilated pores and clogged pores. They may look similar on the surface, but their causes, physiological mechanisms, and management approaches differ entirely. The most important principle in summer pore care, therefore, is not treating pores as a simple size issue — it is accurately identifying the type.
Dilated Pores
Where Structural Breakdown Begins
Dilated pores are often described as “widened pores,” but the phenomenon is more accurately linked to changes in skin structure. It refers to a state in which the pore opening has expanded due to weakening of the dermal support surrounding it. Pores serve as the openings of hair follicles connected to sebaceous glands, acting as channels for sebum and waste elimination. Basic pore size is genetically influenced, but it can become visibly enlarged by factors such as increased sebum production, reduced skin elasticity, UV damage, and aging. In summer, the following factors tend to act in combination:
√ Increased sebum production due to high temperatures
√ UV-induced collagen degradation
√ Accumulation of oxidized sebum
√ Inflammatory skin responses
Dermatological research identifies collagen loss and reduced dermal elasticity as primary contributors to pore enlargement. Skin collagen decreases by approximately 1% each year, and UV exposure and oxidative stress accelerate this process. These changes weaken the structures surrounding pores, causing them to appear progressively more stretched. When increased sebum production is added to this, internal pore pressure rises. Repeated cycles of expansion and contraction gradually stretch the pore walls. Over time, pores widen further and the skin’s microrelief becomes noticeably rougher. The “orange peel texture” commonly observed in esthetic practice is a representative example.
Clogged Pores
A Biochemical Problem Between Dead Skin Cells and Sebum
If dilated pores represent a structural problem, clogged pores are closer to a biochemical one — caused by the binding of dead skin cells and sebum. Within the hair follicle, corneocytes naturally shed and sebum is expelled to the skin surface. However, when sebum production is excessive or desquamation is impaired, sebum and keratinocytes combine inside the pore to form a plug. This condition is known as a comedone and is classified as either a blackhead or a whitehead. Blackheads are widely misunderstood as a sign of dirty pores. In reality, they result from the oxidation of sebum and keratin debris upon air exposure, which causes the darkened appearance.
In summer, rising skin temperature, increased perspiration, and UV-induced oxidative stress accelerate this process. Heavy sunscreens, makeup residue, and fine particulate matter further contribute to debris accumulation at the pore opening. This environment promotes the binding of dead skin cells and sebum, accelerating comedone formation. When sebum oxidation and low-grade inflammatory responses recur, bacterial proliferation may follow, potentially progressing to inflammatory acne.
The Two Pore Types Are Connected
Notably, dilated pores and clogged pores do not exist as independent conditions. They form a cyclical relationship in which each reinforces the other. When pores remain clogged, rising internal pressure gradually expands the pore walls. Conversely, already-dilated pores present a wider opening, making it easier for external debris and sebum to accumulate — and for blockages to re-form. In other words, clogged pores lead to dilated pores, and dilated pores lead back to clogged pores.
Clogged pores → pore dilation
Dilated pores → pore blockage
Core Strategies for Summer Pore Care
For this reason, pore management rarely yields sufficient results through a single approach. Planning a summer pore care program in esthetic practice requires an integrated strategy that addresses three elements simultaneously: sebum regulation, keratinization control, and dermal remodeling.
The first is sebum regulation. This is the foundational step in preventing clogged pores. Ingredients such as niacinamide, azelaic acid, and salicylic acid may help regulate sebum production and reduce excess oil accumulation.
The second is keratinization control. This involves gently addressing a thickened stratum corneum. AHAs, PHAs, and enzyme peels may help reduce hyperkeratinization at the skin surface and decrease comedone plug formation. However, this step alone is unlikely to sufficiently address structural pore dilation.
The third is dermal remodeling. Improving dermal elasticity may help reduce the visible size of dilated pores. When retinoid- or peptide-based treatments that support collagen synthesis and restore skin firmness are incorporated alongside other approaches, the visible appearance of dilated pores may be more effectively improved.
Recent aesthetic dermatology research has explored various procedural approaches to pore improvement. Micro-injections of botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid skin boosters have been investigated as adjunct options. Some findings suggest meaningful improvements in pore appearance through simultaneous sebum regulation and elasticity enhancement. This points to the need for a multidimensional approach that considers both skin structure and physiology — extending well beyond surface-level care.
Clinical Observation Points
in Esthetic Practice
When evaluating pores in an esthetic setting, observing the overall skin pattern — rather than pore size alone — is essential. In general, clogged pores tend to predominate in the T-zone, where sebum activity is higher, while dilated pores are more pronounced in the U-zone, where elasticity loss is more common. Accordingly, a summer pore care program should not follow a one-size-fits-all protocol. A customized approach — combining sebum-focused and elasticity-focused management based on each client’s pore type — is recommended.
The key to pore management lies in an integrated approach that addresses sebum, dead skin cells, and dermal structure simultaneously.
Pores are not simply a cosmetic flaw. They reflect a complex interplay of sebaceous gland activity, keratin metabolism, and structural changes within the dermis. In summer particularly, increased sebum production, oxidation, and UV-induced aging act simultaneously — making it common for both dilated pores and clogged pores to present together. A precise understanding of these two distinct pore types is the starting point from which esthetic professionals can design more refined and effective management strategies. Ultimately, pore management is not about reducing size alone. It is about restoring the balance among sebum, dead skin cells, and skin elasticity. When that balance is maintained, smoother and healthier skin — even through summer — becomes an achievable goal.
REGERENCES.
Maia Campos PMBG et al. Use of Advanced Imaging Techniques for the Characterization of Oily Skin. Frontiers in Physiology, 2019.
Yang R et al. Combination of Botulinum Toxin A and Hyaluronic Acid Improved Facial Pore Enlargement. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2025.
Zhao H. Treating skin diseases: Strategies for managing pore-related skin conditions. Journal of Dermatology Research and Skin Care, 2023.
NIAMS. Acne: Causes and Mechanisms of Follicular Plugging.
Editor Yoon, Seon-yeong
Image Shutterstock
The Signature Magazine – June 2026 Issue