Sebaceous glands are not simply organs that produce oil on the skin. They are highly sensitive receivers of hormonal signals, recording a lifetime of hormonal change directly on the skin’s surface.
Why Are Sebaceous Glands So Sensitive to Hormones?
Have you ever noticed your skin suddenly change? Skin that turns oily overnight, breaks out predictably before menstruation, or develops acne later in life despite aging are all common experiences. Hormones are behind every one of these shifts. Sebaceous gland cells carry androgen receptors on their surface, which directly sense circulating hormone levels and adjust both sebum output and gland size in response.
When dihydrotestosterone (DHT), an active androgen, binds to receptors in the sebaceous gland, it triggers increased sebum production and gland enlargement. Estrogen plays an opposing role, working to counteract androgen’s effects.
Estrogen helps clear excess sebum, supports smooth and radiant skin, and helps maintain collagen and hyaluronic acid, both essential for elasticity and vitality. When androgen becomes dominant, or estrogen declines, this balance is disrupted and sebaceous gland activity increases. The amount of sebum on the skin, then, is not simply a matter of fixed skin type. It reflects the current balance between estrogen and androgen, a balance that shifts dramatically across life stages.
Sebum Changes Across the Life Cycle
Chapter 1. Puberty
— The First Surge
Puberty marks the first major activation of the sebaceous glands. Androgens rise sharply from both the adrenal glands and gonads during this period, enlarging the glands and dramatically increasing sebum output. Oily skin, visibly enlarged pores, and breakouts are all direct results of this process.
As excess sebum builds up, it mixes with dead skin cells at the pore opening and clogs the follicle. Acne-causing bacteria (C. acnes) then multiply inside the blocked pore, triggering inflammation, the typical pathway behind teenage acne. Skin care during this period has long-term consequences for skin texture and pore size. Repeated inflammation can accumulate damage in the dermis, contributing to enlarged pores and uneven texture that may persist into adulthood. For this reason, skincare during puberty deserves more than a passing concern about “teenage skin.”
Chapter 2. The Twenties and Thirties
— Ruled by the Four-Week Cycle
The most detailed and visible hormone-driven sebum fluctuations occur in the twenties and thirties. Estrogen, progesterone, and androgen rise and fall in roughly 28-day waves, and this monthly cycle directly affects sebum levels, pore size, and breakouts.
Menstrual Phase (Days 1–5)
Both estrogen and progesterone drop to their lowest levels. Estrogen reaches its lowest point of the cycle here, which is why skin issues tend to peak during this phase. Sebum production decreases, but the skin barrier weakens at the same time, creating a paradoxical state of sensitivity and dryness. Reduced circulation can also make the complexion appear dull during this phase.
Follicular Phase (Days 6–13)
Estrogen rises steadily, and skin condition improves, marking this as a golden window. As estrogen increases, skin becomes more hydrated, the complexion brightens, and existing breakouts tend to subside. Sebum is more stable and skin regenerates more readily, making this phase well-suited to more active treatments such as laser or peeling procedures.
Ovulation (Around Day 14)
Estrogen peaks and then progesterone begins to climb, shifting the skin environment. As estrogen declines and progesterone rises, skin tends to become less stable. Increased sebum can trigger new breakouts, and a thickening stratum corneum can leave skin feeling rough or uneven. This is also when early signs of pore enlargement may begin to appear.
Luteal Phase (Days 15–28)
Sebum production reaches its peak, and breakouts tend to concentrate during this window. Progesterone promotes fat cell activity and increases sebum output, contributing to acne and related skin concerns. Women with existing skin conditions may notice symptoms worsening during this phase. Recurring breakouts along the jawline or lower cheeks just before menstruation are a classic sign of this luteal-phase progesterone surge.
Chapter 3. Pregnancy
— Behind the Pregnancy plow
Pregnancy brings some of the most dramatic shifts in sebum and skin condition. Estrogen rises sharply, blood flow increases, and collagen synthesis is stimulated, forming the physiological basis of what is commonly called “pregnancy glow.” Because estrogen suppresses androgen activity, sebum production often decreases and skin frequently appears clearer.
Not every pregnant woman experiences this, however. In early pregnancy, irregular hormone fluctuations can instead trigger a surge in breakouts. Estrogen also activates melanocytes, raising the risk of melasma and hyperpigmentation at the same time sebum changes occur. This makes pregnancy a complex period requiring attention to both sebum and pigmentation management together.
Chapter 4. Menopause and Beyond
— The Most Complex Sebum Pattern
Menopause brings the most complicated sebum-related changes of any life stage. It is commonly assumed that declining estrogen simply leads to drier skin and less sebum, but what actually happens is more layered. As estrogen decreases, skin barrier function weakens and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases.
Declining estrogen also sharply reduces both the number and activity of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, leading to an approximate 30% drop in skin collagen reserves. With collagen sharply reduced, menopausal skin tends to feel dry even with regular moisturizing, and the skin barrier becomes more prone to cracking and dehydration.
At the same time, the relative proportion of androgen rises. When estrogen and progesterone both decline sharply after menopause, testosterone levels, even if unchanged in absolute terms, become relatively more dominant, creating an imbalance between female and male hormones. As a result, sebum production can increase, raising the risk of acne.
This is why menopausal acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation often appear together. Skin shows a paradoxical pattern of being both dry and oily, and the composition of sebum itself changes, meaning that approaches that worked in earlier years may no longer be effective.
Clascoterone: A Next-Generation Ingredient to Watch
Most existing sebum-care ingredients act “downstream” in the sebum production pathway. Niacinamide inhibits melanin transfer and has anti-inflammatory effects, salicylic acid dissolves dead skin cells inside pores, and retinol normalizes the skin’s cell renewal cycle. All are valid approaches, but none directly blocked the “upstream” step where the sebaceous gland is activated by androgen signaling.
Clascoterone is the ingredient designed to fill that gap. It is understood to competitively block DHT from binding to androgen receptors within sebaceous gland cells, suppressing sebum production while also reducing the cytokines that drive inflammation in the gland. Because it blocks the signal at the receptor level before it reaches the gland, its mechanism is fundamentally different from earlier ingredients.
Clascoterone is the active ingredient in Winlevi, approved by the FDA in 2020, and is notable for being usable by both men and women, unlike oral hormonal therapies. Because it is applied topically, it can act selectively on the sebaceous gland without the systemic hormonal side effects associated with oral treatments. Limited systemic absorption means it does not produce body-wide anti-androgen effects, distinguishing it from earlier therapies and supporting its safety profile for both sexes.
Its potential application to menopausal skin is also drawing attention. It is considered a theoretically suitable approach for the acne and excess sebum that result from the relatively elevated androgen levels seen after menopause, and related research is ongoing. While still a prescription-only ingredient requiring a dermatologist, the broader shift toward “upstream blocking” in sebum care is likely to influence future skincare ingredient trends.
Care Strategies by Life Stage
1. Puberty
The priority during this stage is sebum balance and minimizing inflammation. A gentler approach that stabilizes sebum production tends to be more effective long-term than aggressive extraction. Deep cleansing to gently clear sebum and dead skin cells from pores, followed by minimal extraction, works well alongside low-concentration BHA peeling to dissolve sebum and refine texture within the pores. Soothing ingredients such as azulene and panthenol help minimize inflammation. LED therapy can be used as a supportive measure on inflamed areas to calm skin and help suppress gland activity. The core principle for this stage is building a consistent sebum-care routine rather than relying on aggressive procedures.
2. Adult Acne (Twenties and Thirties, Cycle-Linked)
Since sebum fluctuation is most clearly tied to the menstrual cycle at this stage, a cycle-aware approach that adjusts treatment intensity accordingly is most effective. The follicular phase (days 6–13) offers the best skin condition and is the ideal window for more active treatments such as spicule peels or AHA peels.
During the luteal phase following ovulation (days 15–28), sebum increases and pores begin to expand, making this the time to intensify treatment intensity and focus on sebum control and pore care. Radiofrequency or ultrasound devices can also be effective during this window for improving the penetration of active ingredients. During the menstrual phase, when the skin barrier is weakest, the priority should shift to reducing irritation and emphasizing soothing, hydrating care.
3. Pregnancy
The range of usable ingredients and procedures is significantly limited during pregnancy. Retinol and retinoids, salicylic acid, and high-concentration chemical peels are all contraindicated. The focus should be on low-irritation, soothing care and hydration-centered treatments that maintain a stable skin barrier without causing irritation. Since estrogen activates melanocytes and raises the risk of pigmentation, sun protection should be maintained alongside efforts to keep skin condition stable within a safe ingredient range.
4. Postpartum Recovery
After childbirth, hormones shift rapidly again, often causing sebum that had been suppressed during pregnancy to resurface, along with renewed pigmentation concerns. Since skin is in a transitional, recalibrating state, the priority should be restoring the skin barrier and stabilizing overall condition rather than pursuing intensive procedures. A gradual, sequential approach, introducing peeling or pigment-care ingredients only once hormones have stabilized, is most appropriate.
5. Menopause and Postmenopause
Because skin in this stage shows a complex pattern of being both dry and oily, this requires the most carefully designed care approach. Barrier repair should take priority, with gentle enzyme peels or PHA-based exfoliation, rather than aggressive exfoliation or strong peels, used as a starting point. Intensity can then be adjusted gradually based on how skin responds.
Radiofrequency microneedling or HIFU-based devices can address collagen remodeling and elasticity care simultaneously, making them well suited to combined pore and sebum care at this stage. When redness or rosacea symptoms are present, low-intensity LED therapy that minimizes heat exposure can be used as a supportive measure, with dermatologist-coordinated care considered when needed.
racks in the skin barrier increase water loss, and through these openings, bacteria, acne-causing microbes, and toxins can enter, heightening skin reactivity and increasing the frequency of itching, redness, and inflammatory breakouts. Aggressive exfoliation or strong peels during this stage are more likely to backfire than help.
Sebum is not the enemy. The sebaceous gland is an organ that expresses the body’s hormonal state on the surface of the skin. Rather than trying to eliminate sebum outright, reading the hormonal signals the skin is sending at each life stage and adjusting care accordingly is the most fundamental strategy for maintaining healthy skin across a lifetime.
References
1. Cassiopea S.p.A. Winlevi (clascoterone) 1% cream. U.S. FDA Approval. 2020.
2. Uiyaknews. Report on new-mechanism acne treatment entering the market after 40 years. 2025.
3. Medical Times. Report on FDA approval of Winlevi as a new-mechanism acne treatment. 2020.
Editor GAHEE, BAEK
Image Shutterstock
The Signature Magazine – June 2026 Issue